420 Basics - follow up from week #1

After three days of boat handling, here are some observations and notes for all of you.

1. Boat Control


Both skippers and crews need to watch this video. Pay attention to what they are talking about with using the sails to trim the boat.

• Skippers, watch the guys in yellow life jackets (NOT the guy in Red) with regard to their foot placement and how they use the sails to steer rather than their rudders. 
• Crews, take a look at jib trim as well as how they are rolling the boats aggressively.

2. Roll Tacks

This video has tacks from some of the best college boats in the country. The footage was shot during the Trux - one of the more competitive intersectionals. There is some Laser footage as well. SKIPPERS pay attention to the hand exchange in those clips as well as to how aggressively they flatten out the boat. There is also some great FJ tacks in the last part of the video. 

3. Wing to Wing Jibes

EVERYONE should watch this again: Technique Tuesday - wing to wing jibes. It will open in a new windows. Here's what you need to pay attention to.

• Skippers, watch the exchange as well as how Ben (skipper) keeps the boat headed down wind without over steering.
• Crews, the only thing that I disagree with is that the crew does not first grab the sheet through the lead before taking it from the skipper. However, watch how she snaps the jib through the wing. Shorter crews, if you want to try having a foot forward of the partners when sailing wing on wing, that's fine. If you are over 5'6", bad idea! You'll have too much weight forward. 
• Jib Trim - At about 1:58 in the video, watch the timing of the jib snap. You will see it again at 2:26.
• Tiller Exchange - There is a great example at 2:36. Watch how the skipper drills the boat flat off of the traveler bar. 
• Steering & Weight - At 3:45, watch the full sequence to see how the boat goes from a wing to a wing. Look at the timing, the heel, the control that the skipper maintains with the main, and how the boat stays sailing down wind the entire time.

Not The Regular Newport Seabreeze

This Saturday did not bring the typically steady seabreeze, instead we were sailing in the lee of Goat Island with some major puffs coming down the course.  While we may all like the consistent breeze in Newport, these conditions are much more common in college sailing venues like Navy, The Charles River, St. Mary's, Hobart, Conn, and just about every where else.  While most of our races were in the 15 knot range with some bigger gusts, we also a light race around 10 knots. There are a few really simple tricks to keep your speed up which you have probably heard before.

1. Anticipate puffs - This will make or break you off the line (yes you Susie). If you see a big puff coming make sure skipper and crew communicate and keep the boat flat by hiking hard and easing the main when it hits, you will probably also want to sneak in and add some vang tension before the puff.  Boats that don't do this (Susie) will slip 1/2 - 1 boatlength to leeward and open up your hole.

2. Pointy end toward the mark - Make sure you are sailing in the lifts and towards pressure.  If you are in the front early on stay between the mark and your competition.

3. Transitions - It sounds like most people did a pretty good job of this, in the light air take the 5 seconds to ease up your Cunningham, outhaul, and rig tension.  It is always best to be setup for the lulls.

FJ Questions - once again!

1. I watched the how not to gybe an FJ video....it looks like they flipped because they put weight on the tank in order to flatten. Do you want to put less weight on the tanks both when rolling and flattening, or just flattening. Today when the wind picked up I felt like I wasn't rolling enough at all and I was just pressing on each tank.

An FJ is really tippy and doesn't need a lot of roll in the gybes - particularly when it gets windy! Most boats go over because the skipper and crew over-flatten. Your description of pressing is a good one. In breeze, you are just trying to keep the boat stable. The rudder on an FJ is tiny, so the skipper needs the crew in order to steer through the gybe. However, unless it is light, you don't have to really whale on the tanks.

2. Is there a specific way to organize the jib sheets while you're fully hiked and sailing upwind - I try to pull the windward sheet taught so its ready when I tack, but it also sometimes gets tangled and hard to get a hold of.

Yes! As soon as you are hiked, pull the slack out of the windward sheet and drape the sheet over your back leg. This way, when you go to tack, it's right there and you can get your hand on the sheet, by the ratchet, as you go to roll & cross.

3. How should you be set in the boat before a start?

Pre-Start is pretty much the same, just keep trimming that jib! If it is totally nuking, you may even cleat the board up half-way before the start to stay more in control.

4. I know when going upwind you play the jib with the skipper, so when they let out you let out, etc. but how should I be playing the jib downwind while on a reach?

Trimming the jib is pretty much the same. Just watch your tell-tales. The thing with an FJ jib is that it is MUCH bigger than a 420 jib. If it is light enough to trim outside the shrouds, then you really need to make sure that you pull down to keep the top of the sail trimmed, but also ease enough for the bottom to be powered up. As it gets windier, you'll trim through the block and just do your best with shape. If it's a really long down-wind leg - and you don't forget for the upwind - you can move your cars to get a better shape. However, the trade-off is minimal if you forget to reset them for the upwind.

5. Should I be "popping" the jib over in front of the block while gybing like in a 420? I know I probably won't be able to in tomorrow's breeze anyway, but what about when its lighter?

If it is light enough, then yes. An important thing about wing-on-wing gybes in big breeze: you want to pop it through the block and not bring your weight to windward to hand it to the skipper. Just pull up hard through the block so that it is slightly over-trimmed for a second and the skipper can then reach forward to take the sheet. However, it it is psycho nuking, then you actually trim the jib on the wing by pulling through the block from the leeward side. This lets the skipper sit in a bit and just trim the main (one pump on the main could be the difference between upright and up-side-down!)

Great Boat Handling Questions

Some of you have asked me some great questions lately. I decided to post them all here. Keep asking!


When you're wiggling, should you bother trimming the jib when turning down or is it slower to let it rag?

Depends on the goal and the speed of the boat behind you. If you are wiggling to slow down, then rag. If you are wiggling to try to hook the guy behind, use the jib to control your speed.

When flattening in light air with the bunny hop (and you have to get back down to leeward), should you flatten more on the side and keep one leg raised to hop down or something else?

In light air, I tend to hop up on both feet and then drop back down into the boat with one foot on each side of the centerboard trunk. On a day like yesterday, it's a definite just hop up and drop down.


On the R-R jibes I remember you saying something about weighting the rail, popping the jib, then rolling. Where does that main crossing and skipper flattening come in? It seemed like the later we flattened (or today, when my skipper flattened) the higher we were pointing and more speed we had, is that okay in a race or should our jibes be faster but with less power?

That's good in light air. You'll have to adjust depending on the conditions. The main should come across with the roll. In light air, you can even stay down after it comes all the way across. If it's nuking, then you would obviously come across sooner with no roll.

I was watching the gybing video Roy posted and I noticed that the crew never actually "sat" on the windward tank to roll the boat, she just rolled off the shroud. Do you want crews to roll off the tank or off the shroud?

I usually had you come to the rail and sit because it got your weight to windward sooner to help carve the boat through the gybe. Personally, I grab the hiking strap and pull to roll. When that video was filmed, kinetics was not as big of an issue. I wonder about the legality of gybing off the shrouds like that now. They are definitely effective gybes, and you could certainly give it a shot. I'm only curious about the kinetics question.

Back to Basics

It's a new season, and Polly told me that I hadn't written in a while. That said, here goes: time to get back to basics. As a team, we need to focus on boat-handling and boat speed. Skippers need to be better about locking into the boat and using less rudders. Crews need to start taking initiative: jib trim, weight placement, remembering that they are crucial to boat speed.

We also need to talk about tacking. Here are a few videos that may help you out. First, Patrick Rynne has a good camera angle from inside the boat. Skippers, watch the main trim, how little rudder he uses, and the exchange. My only comment would be that he could use more of an ease.


Sailing Videos on Sailgroove


As a credit to Clare, here is a great Technique Tuesday, from Hotchkiss, showing the hand exchange.

Watch more video of Technique Tuesdays on sailgroove.org

Crews, for great footage of roll tacking, go to Roy's site on Dragon and watch the footage of Garth/Sharky and Annika/crew. I know that it's on there. Make sure you drop someone a line if you have questions, or pose them as comments to this post.

Mark Roundings - by Brooke Thompson

Here are a few pull-out's from Brooke's article on SailGroove.

1. Mark Roundings are about boat handling and not boat speed
2. The crew has to steer the boat around the mark. It's all about weight placement and jib trim.
3. Three critical things to remember: (A) watch the skipper's shoulders and move in the same direction, (B) Anytime the crew moves up and trims jib, the bow will turn down, (C) Anytime the crew moves down and eases jib, the bow will turn up.
4. The last 1/3rd of the windward leg, start thinking about rounding the mark. Look for are other boats, the lay line, and any major wind shifts that could change your angle to the mark.
5. Don't hit other boats. Luff to stop if you have to.
6. Make sure you can accelerate after the rounding. That's when the focus really shifts back to boat speed.
7. Be aware of the angles of the boats around you.
   

Getting Stable

What did you learn from practice yesterday? Take a look at this video from SailGroove about converting to stable combinations. Thoughts on what they try?

Watch more video of Technique Tuesdays on sailgroove.org