Mark Roundings - by Brooke Thompson

Here are a few pull-out's from Brooke's article on SailGroove.

1. Mark Roundings are about boat handling and not boat speed
2. The crew has to steer the boat around the mark. It's all about weight placement and jib trim.
3. Three critical things to remember: (A) watch the skipper's shoulders and move in the same direction, (B) Anytime the crew moves up and trims jib, the bow will turn down, (C) Anytime the crew moves down and eases jib, the bow will turn up.
4. The last 1/3rd of the windward leg, start thinking about rounding the mark. Look for are other boats, the lay line, and any major wind shifts that could change your angle to the mark.
5. Don't hit other boats. Luff to stop if you have to.
6. Make sure you can accelerate after the rounding. That's when the focus really shifts back to boat speed.
7. Be aware of the angles of the boats around you.
   

Getting Stable

What did you learn from practice yesterday? Take a look at this video from SailGroove about converting to stable combinations. Thoughts on what they try?

Watch more video of Technique Tuesdays on sailgroove.org

Observations from the Week

I think we've gotten quite a bit accomplished this week when on the water, but we still have a very long way to go. A few of you have sent me questions. Every one can benefit.

1. I'm having trouble with tacks. I think my biggest issue is getting across the boat.

• Both skippers and crews are trying to roll too much on your backs. You need to think about shifting your hips back; or, as Hilary calls it, do the one-cheek-sneak.
• There are some differences of opinion as to how crews should cross the boat. I prefer the bunny-hop, but not everyone can do this. For completely different, yet very effective styles, watch Anna and Julia. Either way is fine, as long as you can flatten well.
  

2. I can't get the jib in fast enough out of the tacks.

• In breeze, as you hit the hiking straps on the windward side to flatten out the boat, punch your arm over your head to get the jib all the way in.
• If you aren't strong enough to pull the jib all the way in once it is loaded up, you can use your legs, ask your skipper for help, or do the monkey-leg thing (I'll show you and Claire probably can too since it's a Tufts thing).
  

3. When you're heeling the boat through the wing-on-wing gybe, what should the crew hike off of, or is simply sitting on the rail enough of a heel?

• You do not hike hard to roll a wing-to-wing gybe. Think of it more as a carve than a roll. The key is to weight the rail early. Your weight should drive the boat down through the gybe.
• It's also just as important to maintain weather heel as you go into the gybe. A lot of our crews let the boats start to flatten, or even heel to leeward, when getting the board down and such. This causes the boat to head-up and the skipper to have to over-steer the gybe.
• Make sure, too, that you are flying the jib all the way through the gybe.

4. When going from a wing to a reach does the crew pop the jib through the lead then hold it outside the shroud?

• When going wing to reach, it depends on the wind conditions. If it's nuking, then everything stays through the lead. If you can trim outside of the shrouds, then just dive to leeward and immediately go for the windward sheet. Then, take the slack out of the leeward sheet.
• Both skippers and crews need to work on these wing to reach transitions (and back). This is a whole conversation...

5. Transitions! We have noticed that all of you are not transitioning well. There are a few things that you can all be doing:

• Skippers need to play the vang in puffy conditions. It was nuking at times and no one had reached into the boat.
• Crews need to start telling skippers about puffs and lulls. It's just as important to prepare for a lull as for a puff.
• Look before you tack! If you are tacking in a puff, don't over-roll the boat. Similarly, if you are tacking in a lull, make sure you are ready to accelerate out of the tack.

Any more??? Feel free to either comment on the post or send me your questions.

Pre-Start Homework

As we discussed yesterday, you should always do your homework before the start. At the bare minimum, the skipper and crew need to:

1. Check all ring-dings
2. Check your hiking straps
3. Check your tiller extension and universal
4. Check your rudder bolt
5. Get a line sight
6. Get a lay-line to boat (critical if you are starting boat or middle)
   
7. Get a lay-line to pin (critical if you are starting pin)
8. Get the time down the line
9. Get the time around the boat
10. Look up the course

Here is a link to the full article that Roy mentioned on SailGroove about what crews should do before the start. (http://www.sailgroove.org/articles/view/877-for-starters)

Ducking - This Week's Technique Tuesday

Soooo, what do you think?? I have my opinions. How do WE execute a good duck?

Watch more video of Technique Tuesdays on sailgroove.org

Here are some hints:

• Which way do you heel the boat in order to bear away?
• Which way do you heel the boat in order to head up?
• What did we review yesterday about lateral distance?

Maybe we will work on this today or tomorrow and then add more notes.

New Season, New Things to Think About

Well, we're back from another spring break trip to Stuart. The boats will get rigged next week, and we'll be on the water shortly. One thing that's new this year is the availability of good video for boat handling, thanks to SailGroove.

The first one to look at is about wing-to-wing gybes. Crews, take a look at the timing of the wing, the stability of the boat, and the flick around the mast. Some of you are ready to move to this level. Oh, just food for thought to get the season started.

Watch more video of Technique Tuesdays on sailgroove.org