Great Boat Handling Questions

Some of you have asked me some great questions lately. I decided to post them all here. Keep asking!


When you're wiggling, should you bother trimming the jib when turning down or is it slower to let it rag?

Depends on the goal and the speed of the boat behind you. If you are wiggling to slow down, then rag. If you are wiggling to try to hook the guy behind, use the jib to control your speed.

When flattening in light air with the bunny hop (and you have to get back down to leeward), should you flatten more on the side and keep one leg raised to hop down or something else?

In light air, I tend to hop up on both feet and then drop back down into the boat with one foot on each side of the centerboard trunk. On a day like yesterday, it's a definite just hop up and drop down.


On the R-R jibes I remember you saying something about weighting the rail, popping the jib, then rolling. Where does that main crossing and skipper flattening come in? It seemed like the later we flattened (or today, when my skipper flattened) the higher we were pointing and more speed we had, is that okay in a race or should our jibes be faster but with less power?

That's good in light air. You'll have to adjust depending on the conditions. The main should come across with the roll. In light air, you can even stay down after it comes all the way across. If it's nuking, then you would obviously come across sooner with no roll.

I was watching the gybing video Roy posted and I noticed that the crew never actually "sat" on the windward tank to roll the boat, she just rolled off the shroud. Do you want crews to roll off the tank or off the shroud?

I usually had you come to the rail and sit because it got your weight to windward sooner to help carve the boat through the gybe. Personally, I grab the hiking strap and pull to roll. When that video was filmed, kinetics was not as big of an issue. I wonder about the legality of gybing off the shrouds like that now. They are definitely effective gybes, and you could certainly give it a shot. I'm only curious about the kinetics question.

Mark Roundings - by Brooke Thompson

Here are a few pull-out's from Brooke's article on SailGroove.

1. Mark Roundings are about boat handling and not boat speed
2. The crew has to steer the boat around the mark. It's all about weight placement and jib trim.
3. Three critical things to remember: (A) watch the skipper's shoulders and move in the same direction, (B) Anytime the crew moves up and trims jib, the bow will turn down, (C) Anytime the crew moves down and eases jib, the bow will turn up.
4. The last 1/3rd of the windward leg, start thinking about rounding the mark. Look for are other boats, the lay line, and any major wind shifts that could change your angle to the mark.
5. Don't hit other boats. Luff to stop if you have to.
6. Make sure you can accelerate after the rounding. That's when the focus really shifts back to boat speed.
7. Be aware of the angles of the boats around you.
   

Observations from the Week

I think we've gotten quite a bit accomplished this week when on the water, but we still have a very long way to go. A few of you have sent me questions. Every one can benefit.

1. I'm having trouble with tacks. I think my biggest issue is getting across the boat.

• Both skippers and crews are trying to roll too much on your backs. You need to think about shifting your hips back; or, as Hilary calls it, do the one-cheek-sneak.
• There are some differences of opinion as to how crews should cross the boat. I prefer the bunny-hop, but not everyone can do this. For completely different, yet very effective styles, watch Anna and Julia. Either way is fine, as long as you can flatten well.
  

2. I can't get the jib in fast enough out of the tacks.

• In breeze, as you hit the hiking straps on the windward side to flatten out the boat, punch your arm over your head to get the jib all the way in.
• If you aren't strong enough to pull the jib all the way in once it is loaded up, you can use your legs, ask your skipper for help, or do the monkey-leg thing (I'll show you and Claire probably can too since it's a Tufts thing).
  

3. When you're heeling the boat through the wing-on-wing gybe, what should the crew hike off of, or is simply sitting on the rail enough of a heel?

• You do not hike hard to roll a wing-to-wing gybe. Think of it more as a carve than a roll. The key is to weight the rail early. Your weight should drive the boat down through the gybe.
• It's also just as important to maintain weather heel as you go into the gybe. A lot of our crews let the boats start to flatten, or even heel to leeward, when getting the board down and such. This causes the boat to head-up and the skipper to have to over-steer the gybe.
• Make sure, too, that you are flying the jib all the way through the gybe.

4. When going from a wing to a reach does the crew pop the jib through the lead then hold it outside the shroud?

• When going wing to reach, it depends on the wind conditions. If it's nuking, then everything stays through the lead. If you can trim outside of the shrouds, then just dive to leeward and immediately go for the windward sheet. Then, take the slack out of the leeward sheet.
• Both skippers and crews need to work on these wing to reach transitions (and back). This is a whole conversation...

5. Transitions! We have noticed that all of you are not transitioning well. There are a few things that you can all be doing:

• Skippers need to play the vang in puffy conditions. It was nuking at times and no one had reached into the boat.
• Crews need to start telling skippers about puffs and lulls. It's just as important to prepare for a lull as for a puff.
• Look before you tack! If you are tacking in a puff, don't over-roll the boat. Similarly, if you are tacking in a lull, make sure you are ready to accelerate out of the tack.

Any more??? Feel free to either comment on the post or send me your questions.

Dean's Downwind Notes

REMEMBER this is all very situational and the diagram and below words are for you to have in your head to use when the situation seems to fit.


As you approach the weather mark:

• If you were Lifted on stbd tack, upwind, and in a puff, then just bear away and ride it out downwind.
  


• If you were Knocked on stbd tack, upwind, in a puff, then consider jibing around the mark.

STEADY BREEZE

• Always keep your downwind lane clear. The best way to do this is to make sure that no one is on your breeze. If you have tell-tales, look at the direction that they are flowing and then trace that behind you to see if the other boat is on your breeze. A quick luff of your jib can also tell you this.


• Rule of thumb - I would keep the boat behind just off of my port corner if on stbd jibe, and the other corner if on port jibe.


• As you approach the leeward mark, make sure that you are on the inside. This means that you need to work towards the inside, and think about over-laps the entire way down the course. Don't be afraid to hit the brakes at the 2-boat-length circle so that you don't get caught outside of boats. It's better to slow early and get a good rounding, than to sail around the outside of several boats.
  
  NOTE: this strategy does not apply to busting mark traps.

PUFFS FROM THE LEFT

• If you are already in the puff, then jibe onto port to ride it out, and then jibe back to connect with the next puff.


• As you approach the leeward mark, stbd jibe is the faster jibe and gives you inside advantage. This is because the stbd jibe will be a reach with left puffs.

PUFFS FROM THE RIGHT

• If in the puff, stay on stbd and ride it out then jibe to connect with the next puff.


• As you approach the leeward mark, there are potential gains on port jibe because it is the faster jibe in the puff. This is because the others are sailing dead downwind on stbd into mark. However, this is a little more risky because as you move down the course you have to assess the line up (ladder rungs).

**The right puff is what you took advantage of on Monday practice near the leeward mark.

THE DIAGRAM
The black line shows the course in the different puffs. When the line bends, that is a jibe to connect back to the puff

Is Your Boat Set-Up Properly?

I'm noticing that most of you are not adjusting your rig tension on the water. My question is this: do you know what you're looking for?

With a 420, to know if the boat is set-up properly, you have to get the boat sailing up-wind and then let go of the tiller. The goal is to have a little bit of weather-helm. If the boat crash tacks, then you have too little jib halyard tension. If it falls off, then you have too much. The boat should just slightly edge up-wind when the boat has the correct rig tension.

There are a zillion myths about rig set up. People talk about twisting, pulling, whatever the fore stay. Others say that it has to do with the amount of sag in the leeward shroud. Basically, just get the boat upwind and check it.

Puffy Conditions

These questions were emailed to me earlier this morning. I thought you all may be interested. As always, feel free to comment.

When I'm calling puffs, should I be able to tell whether its a header or a lift, or does that just come with experience?

Start by just getting the timing down, You should be able to say that there is a puff in 5 seconds and then count it down. Once you get the timing, since you will have been paying attention, you will start to understand direction.

To keep it really simple, the axis of the header will be pointed such that it makes the boat want to bear away when the puff hits. The axis of a lift will allow the boat to head up to meet it,

In breezy conditions is it just as important to be playing the jib as in lighter conditions, or should I be more focused on keeping the boat flat?

It is just as important, just harder to do because of the load on the sheets. You still need to adjust with your skipper, regardless of the wind velocity. When it really nukes, that's when it pays to be able to ease with the skipper in the puffs.

When judging how to play the jib, is it based more on skipper communicating what they're doing with the main, or just anticipating the puffs?

Both. First off, your skipper should be talking to you about what they are doing with the main. Since you have your head out of the boat and are looking around, you should start to recognize what your skipper is doing when, and then start to anticipate

Welcome to the 2008 Season

Well, guys, it's time to get going again. We've already had a few days on the water in Newport, plus a week of practice in Florida. So far, what have you learned?

A few things from Florida and the first few practices that you should all keep in mind.

1. Boatspeed Kills - you have to be focused, 100% of the time, on going fast. This is for both the skippers and crews. With regard to boatspeed, you have to think about sail trim, weight, rudder, shifts, pressure, timing.... It's more than thinking that you are just going in a straight line.


2. Boat-handling - it has to be perfect 100% of the time. Every second that you are on the water, you should be working on your boathandling. Try new things. Remember that the flatten is twice as important than the roll. Timing is everything. Go back to Dragon and review Roy's videos. You all have a lot of work to do.


3. Intensity - If you think that everything will magically come together in a clutch moment, then you are fooling yourself. In order to achieve the level that we are all striving for, then you have to be focused, at the highest level, any time you are on the water or in a practice situation. In Florida, there was at least an hour of practice time that was not utilized because people were not working independently. If you want to be the best, you have to work for it.

Dean had some more concrete observations from his first day on the water:

Remember sailing is a very unique sport, the athlete has to be mentally
and physically prepared for the elements because as sailors you have to
adapt to the changing conditions (wind, water, and weather). Part of
this is to be properly geared up as well so that your mind focuses on
sailing and not how cold your hands are etc. So below I have listed
some things that might or might not help you in getting prepared to sail
from what I saw today.

Things to think about as the week rolls on:

Crews:

-foot work is very important. I strongly encourage all of
you crews to practice going from one side of the boat to the other in
your room. YES I said in your room. Visualize the centerboard trunk and
your feet on either side and stand on the balls of your feet. Practice
shifting your weight from one side to the other. One way to make it
more realistic is to take two chairs and space them apart from one
another so that you can sit on one, goto the balls of your feet
(straddling the centerboard trunk) then sit down on the other. Yes it
sounds corny but trust me it works!

-Jib trimming from one side to the other.. Don't forget to
uncleat the jib and in return once it is uncleated pull the other one in
as the boat tacks. This too can be practiced in your room, once all
your roommates think you are crazy jumping from one chair to another
imagine holding a jib sheet (now they will really think you have lost
it!). While sitting on the one chair pretend to pop the jib out of the
cleat move to the balls of your feet then as you sit down (on the other
chair) in one motion pull the other jib sheet in.

-Down wind you crews are the life support of the boat.
Standing up is important with your knees slightly bent. You control the
boat and its stability. One foot at the base of the mast and the other
angled back. (this position will get you ready for college when you can
add the ooch downwind)


Skippers:

-In todays conditions, remember to have your mains up all
the way, outhaul on, and the big thing I noticed was the skipper and
crew hop!

THE SKIPPER and CREW HOP was being preformed exceptionally well however
it will not win you any points come competition time. What I am talking
about is as puffs and lulls roll through both skipper and crew jump in
and out to keep the boat balanced. I would like to see this happen a
little more gracefully. One reason for the hop is because the vang is
too loose so when the puff comes and the main is eased too much sail
power is lost forcing the crew and skipper to jump in, as the skipper
trims the main back in both skipper and crew jump out (very unbalanced).
Pulling on a little more vang and easing the main in and out a little
less both skipper and crew can remain locked in a hiking position and
keeping the boat flat allowing the foils to really work and the boat
just jumps to weather.


-Let your new crews have the rush of hanging off the side of
the boat feeling nothing but their ankles holding them in. The reason I
say this in today most experienced skippers worked really hard at hiking
and keeping the boats flat while the crews did a half hike (because they
did not have to hike) I would like to see the crews hiking harder and
the skippers half hiking until their services are needed. This frees up
the skipper to concentrate a little more on boat speed and the
environment of which they are sailing.

So, what did you learn?